Die Venloer Straße, die Hauptschlagader von Köln-Ehrenfeld, war einst fast schon ein Schandfleck. Hier reihten sich dubiose Sportwetten-Etablissments an Sexshops und Ein-Euro-Läden, dazwischen ein paar Dönerbuden und wenig Besuchswürdiges. Besonders „schlimm“ war es „hinterm Gürtel“; der Teil in Richtung Bickendorf war schlichtweg unsexy.
Diese Zeiten sind längst vorbei. Hippe Intererior Design- und Klamottenläden, der Kulturraum 405, bunte Cafés mit Zitronen an der Decke wie das Caprista sowie multikulturelle Restaurants machen die Venloer attraktiv.
Lange war ich Pizza Pazzia treu, einer minikleinen Pizzeria mit einem überdimensionalen Ofen, aus dem hauchdünne, knusprige, belegte Fladen kommen, die damals zwischen vier und sieben Euro fuffzich gekostet haben und zum Niederknien sind.
Als nach ein paar Jahren Made in Napoli fünf Gehminuten von meinem Zuhause entfernt eröffnet hat, wusste ich jedoch: Ich mags auch mal Neapolitanisch. Papperlapapp, was heißt mögen? I simply love it. Die Zubereitungssart ist nämlich anders, als bei herkömmlicher Pizza wie der Romana.
Aus Made in Napoli wurde Spaccanapoli
Mittlerweile wohne ich nicht mehr in Ehren- sondern in Brownsfeld und auch bei Made in Napoli hat sich was getan: Die Pizzabäcker sind in die Subbelrather Straße umgezogen. „Spaccanapoli“ steht jetzt in großen schwarzen Lettern über der Fensterfront. „Neapolitan Pizzeria & Wine Bar“. So so. Ich rufe meine italienische Bekannte Daniela an: „Ciao Daniela, du sag mal, was heißt denn Spacca?“. „Spacca? Äh, sowas wie zerschlagen, geteilt.“ „Hmmm? Ok, komisch.“ … Zerschlagenes Napoli, seltsamer Name. Ich musste natürlich trotzdem dringend wissen, was aus „meinem“ Made in Napoli geworden ist und habe der kleinen, aber nicht so kleinen wie Pizza Pazzia-Pizzeria einen Besuch abgestattet. Gut so!
Unter Anderem, weil ich eine zuckersüße statt diavoloscharfe Geschichte zu Ohren bekommen habe: Das Besitzerpärchen Valentina (26) und Raffaele (29) hatte hier, aber eben bei Made in Napoli, sein erstes Date. Die Funken sprühten scheinbar auch ohne Kerzenschein; die Zwei wohnen zusammen und sind ein erfolgreiches Unternehmerpaar.
Dabei kann Valentina das Wissen von ihrer Ausbildung zur Weinhändlerin einfließen lassen und hat ihre Skills kreativ umgesetzt: Die erste Seite der Klemmbrettkarte guided die Besucher*innen und erklärt anschaulich, welcher Wein zu welcher Pizza passt. Das ist mal ein Service!
Für Leute wie mich, die noch nicht in Neapel waren, gibt es bedruckte Tischsets, die verraten, was Spaccanapoli bedeutet: Es handelt sich um einen Straßenzug, der sich wie eine Messerfurche durch Neapels Altstadt zieht und sie in zwei Teile teilt. Und da scheint sogar Einiges los zu sein, im Sinne von buntem Treiben. Gut dass das jetzt geklärt ist.
Satte 23 Pizzen auf der Karte
Beim Lesen der Karte läuft mir das Wasser im Mund zusammen und die Qual der Wahl fällt schwer. Neben Klassikern finden sich hier kreative Kreationen mit Walnüssen, Zucchinicreme, Basilikumpesto und Thunfischfilet. Puh. Die Speisekarte hält insgesamt 23 unterschiedliche Pizzen bereit, 13 davon vegetarisch und fünf vegan, on top zwei Calzone-Varianten. Wie soll man sich da entscheiden? Meine Begleitung ist Vegetarier und wir beschließen, zwei Pizzen zu teilen. Parmaschinken und Co fallen also leider raus.
Was sich als gar nicht schlimm herausstellt, denn die vegetarische „Pizza Verde“ mit hausgemachtem Basilikumpesto, Kirschtomaten, Rucola, Walnüssen und Fior di Latte kann sich sehen und schmecken lassen. Wie ich schon am eigenen Leib erfahren habe, ist neapolitanische Pizza nicht jedermanns/-fraus Geschmack. Im Spätsommer 2022 war ich mit zwei Freundinnen bei Made in Napoli und habe im Vorfeld von den Pizzen geschwärmt und zu hohe Erwartungen geschürt.
Mir dagegen schmecken sie umso mehr. Der Clou bei der Zubereitungsart ist, dass die Pizza bei rund 480 Grad nur 60 Sekunden im Ofen ist. Ihr könnt es schon ahnen: Die Pizza ist nicht so knusprig, dass man sie schneiden und die Stücke in die Hände nehmen kann. Vielmehr umrahmt der herrlich dicke, fluffige Rand einen eher schlonzigen, göttlichen Teig, der mit perfekter Salznote daher kommt. Pizzabäcker Nicola geizt auch nicht mit dem hochwertigen Belag, sodass die Pizza – für meinen Geschmack – perfekt ist.
Den krönenden Abschluss bildet ein Pistazien-Tiramisu ohne Alkohol, wunderbar cremig und mit wenig Zucker, das Valentina selbst gezaubert hat.
Zwar habe ich meinen Lieblingskellner von Made in Napoli vermisst. Doch das Essen, das Ambiente und die Gastfreundlichkeit bekommen fünf von fünf Sternen.
Heißer Tipp: Die famosen Pizzen könnt ihr Euch auch per Lieferando oder Uber liefern lassen.
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