Lang, lang ist es her: 2016 habe ich einen Beitrag über Madame Tartine geschrieben, ein schnuckeliges, liebenswertes Café in der Hauptschlagader Ehrenfelds, der Venloer Straße. Damals betrieben von der Französin Aline, sind seit April 2022 Noelle (29) und Lea (35) die Betreiberinnen. Noelle hat schon vorher hier gearbeitet und Lea, Künstlerin, war lange Zeit Stammgast. Während Noelle an der Front arbeitet, kocht, backt und kellnert, kümmert Lea sich beispielsweise um Instagram.
Ich besuche sie an einem Sonntag und bin froh, einen Tisch reserviert zu haben; es ist bumsvoll. Wir haben den besten, nämlich den Fensterplatz. Fun fact: Der Platz bringt an diesem Tag Nordsee-Feeling mit sich: Draußen stürmt es, wir sitzen direkt an der Tür und jedes Mal wenn diese aufgeht (oft), wehen unsere Haare im Wind.
Der Schuster bleibt bei seinen Leisten
Was hat sich verändert, was ist so geblieben wie von der Besitzerin Aline initiiert? Optisch ist bis auf ein Regal alles so geblieben, wie damals, so beispielsweise die für meinen Geschmack schönsten Wände.
Das schlauchartige Café mit Vintagemöbeln und vielen aufgehängten Bildern versprüht Gemütlichkeit und lädt zum Verweilen ein. Links hinter der Tür sitzt ein Paar, Mitte 50. Daneben eine Gruppe junger Männer Anfang 20. Hinten vor der Kuchentheke sitzen Mama und Papa mit ihrer Tochter, die heiße Milch trinkt. Rechts am Katzentisch ein junges Paar. Neben uns ebenfalls. Anfangs denken wir, sie führen ein Krisengespräch. Dann wird geturtelt, Händchen gehalten, Küsschen verteilt, über die Wange gestreichelt. Süß.
Unsere Wahl fällt auf …
Wir entscheiden uns beide für den Lemoncheesecake, den ich damals schon gerne gegessen habe.
Dazu einen Cappuccino mit Hafermilch und ein Wasser, für meine Begleitung Lisa darf es eine Lavendellimonade von Cucumis sein.
Die Speisekarte hat sich inhaltlich kaum verändert, aber optisch: Früher als handgeschriebenes, laminiertes Schulheft gestaltet, lesen wir heute in Klemmbrettern. Auch ganz schick.
alle Fotos von Lisa Schulz
Voll im „Trend“, kommen auch Vegetarier*innen, Veganer*innen und glutenfrei lebende Gäste auf ihre Kosten und die Milch und Bio-Eier bekommt die Madame von regionalen Höfen. Neben wechselnden Tagesgerichten stehen frische Salat-Bowls, knusprige Quiches, französische Croques und gegrillte Tartines auf der Karte und der großen Tafel.
Französische Tartine versus german Stulle
Daher hat das gemütliche Café seinen Namen: Tartines sind französische Butterbrote, gegen die man unsere german Stulle am besten in der Tasche lässt. Angeröstetes, frisches Landbrot, aromatischer Schinken, cremiger Camembert und provinzialische Kräuter – uh lá lá, da prickelt es ja fast in die Bauchnabel. Alle süßen wie herzhaften Speisen, Aufstriche sowie das Gebäck sind hausgemacht und – was ich besonders schön und sympathisch finde – man kann dem Personal bei der Arbeit zusehen, denn die offene Küche bildet das Ende des Schlauches, in dem die Gäste schmausen.
Der „absolute Bestseller“ ist das Planche Frühstück, süß und herzhaft: „Das ist eine Kombination aus unseren Frühstücken Avocadobrot und Granola, jeweils eine halbe Portion davon“, erklärt Noelle. Oha, ich weiß schon, wo ich bald frühstücke ♥
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